The Porges von Portheim Palace in Smichov Prague

In 1722, K.I. Dienzenhofer bought a part of the Smichov plot which had, before the Trussite wars, belonged to the Carthusian monastries.

After 1620, Michnum z Vacinova took over, by 1728 K.I.Dienzenhofer had built a summer palace for his family (this is to-day number 68).

It was a simple one-story building with a highly decorated garden entrance gate where, at the ground floor level, they built a remarkable salla terrena, as well as an oval marble hall on the first floor, whose ceiling in 1729 was painted by V.V. Reinera "Bacchanalia".

In 1752, after the death of the architect, because of family quarrels among the heirs, the castle was sold. In 1758 it was acquired by Count Francis Leopold of Buquoy-Longeval who not only had the gardens enlarged, extending them all the way to the Moldau, but also added an Orangerie, the fig House and extensive glass houses, where many famous parties took place.

The badly kept residence deteriorated to such an extent that, when purchased in 1804 by F. Delorme, it became a chicory processing plant. The plot was then bought in 1828 by Moses and Juda von Portheim who erected a cardboard factory near the Moldau and adapted the former summer palace to a family home.Josef von Portheim later added another story to the side wings.

These were used in the 1870's as a music center, and in the marble hall, many virtuosi appeared, as well as a resident quartet whose violinist was none other than Antonin Dvorak.

When the suburb of Smichov built the basilica of St. Wenceslas, they bought part of the gardens, and in 1884 the right wing of the palace was pulled down, thus affecting the symmetry of the building.

Even the original small summer palace was affected by these regulations (?). but the Portheims managed to save it, although raising the level of the surrounding streets damaged both the garden and building.

After the Second World War, the garden was opened to the public and the summer palace restored.

PLAQUE : The baroque Pavillion in Killian erected by Ignace Diesenhoffer between 1722 & 1729.
On the 1^st floor, the Hall is decorated with ceiling paintings by Vavlav Vavrince Reiner, former name "Buquoika", according to the proprietor F. Leopold Buquois, an addition of the side wings were added in 1758.

The webmaster visited Prague in october 2003 :
My contact in Prague was Daniel Polakovic who works at the department of Jewish Studies
at the Jewish Museum in Prague. (Phone : +420 221 711 528, e-mail : daniel.polakovic@jewishmuseum.cz)
Dan wrote a thesis about Darke Zion by Moses Israel Naftali Porges (1650).
Unfortunately, this 100 pages document is written in Czech.
But thanks to Edita Attek, a member of the von Portheim family, the Porges excerpts were translated from Czech to English.
It contains some interesting information about the origin of the Porges family (hence von Portheim).
Dan kindly gave me a copy of his work, which I will be more than happy to forward to anyone interested. The computer file was lost.
It would be interesting to have this document read by a Czech-speaking person, and the relevant excerpts translated into English (may be Helen Atteck's daughter in law who lived in Slovakia????).

Dan also deciphered the Porges tombstones in the Old Jewish Cemetery of Prague. All in Hebrew. Most date way back before 1600. Dan promised that he (or someone under his supervision) would transcript the texts into roman characters and send them to me for posting on the website.

Dan made the necessary appointments for me to visit the Portheimka villa and took me to the Old and New Jewish cemeteries of Smichov, where some von Portheims are buried.

Dan was told by the community that funds are needed to repair and maintain
the Portheim's monument at the New Jewish cemetery of Smichov.

The person to contact is :
Ing. Mojmir Maly
Sprava Zidovskych Hrbitovu
Izraelska 1
PRAGUE 3, 130 00
Phone : +420 2 272 739 045

Dan, thank you so much for your time and your invaluable help.

	The Portheimka villa is nicely located in Smichov, a borough of Prague where many office buildings are under construction. It is the location of Prague's Carrefour hypermarket & many new department stores. It is becoming a trendy area for artists. The villa is located along a small park, that once was probably part of the property. There are two buildings. One on the left that we could visit, and one on the right that is reserved for private events. The villa is now under the responsibility of an official preservation public office : NARODNI DUM NA SMICHOVE namesti 14, rijna 16 150 00 PRAHA phone +420 2 570 999 27 Mrs Jaroslava MALIKOVA has the keys to the villa and she very kindly gave us a complete tour. The building is extremely well maintained. It is used occasionally for concerts, and the second floor was used as a studio by a local classical music FM radio.
	The left aisle has three levels. There are two statues in the front. They are copies of the originals which are stored inside the building for preservation. On the left site of the entrance, there is a curious grotto decoration.
	On the ground floor, there is a public cafe (Apostrof) and an area reserved for exhibitions (empty when I visited).
	There are several rooms on the first floor. A central concert room with marble on the walls and frescos painted on the ceiling. (webmaster visiting ... )
	Two adjacent rooms with frescos on the walls and a few paintings (none of which is a Portheim portrait).
	I insisted on visiting the second floor which Mrs MALIKOVA said was totally empty, and it was. No Portheim portrait there either.
	At the end of the park, there is a new office building under construction and nearly completed. It is called the Portheimka Center. On the picture, the P. villa can be seen in the back on the right hand side of the alley.
	Then we went to the New Jewish Cemetery of Smichov. It is a very small cemetery. The two Portheim graves are in the back, on the right hand side. The monument on the left is the grave of Joseph and Rosa von Portheim. At the bottom of the plaque, there is a music score (Beethoven, opus 58 n. III). This is the monument for which funds are needed for renovation and maintenance. Family tree
	Left of the above monument is the grave of Mathilde von Portheim geb. Philipp and Gustav von Portheim. Family tree

March 26, 2003

History of the Smichov Synagogue

Astrid Hofmanova

The Jewish ghetto of Prague evokes all sorts of magic and legends.
According to tradition, the first Jews arrived in Prague after the destruction of the temple in Jerusalem and they remained an important part of the cultural scene there from that time on.
Before its demolition, the ghetto was made up of dilapidated huts built on little, narrow, dark streets.
Among the remaining historical monuments that testify to the rich Jewish history associated with Prague, one can still find several synagogues in the Jewish neighborhood of Josefov : the oldest synagogue of Prague – the Old-New Synagogue, the Maisel synagogue, the High synagogue, the Klaus synagogue.
But there is another, less well-known synagogue situated outside the ghetto, in the Smichov neighborhood.
This synagogue is currently under reconstruction and, upon completion, is expected to house the archives of the Jewish communities of Bohemia and Moravia and some art treasures from the Jewish Museum of Prague.
Here, then, is the eventful history of the Smichov synagogue.

The synagogue was built in 1850 in the oldest neighborhood of Prague, Smichov.
At that time, the people in the Jewish community of Smichov worked in the textile factories that several rich, Jewish families - the Porges, Pribram and Dormitzer families - owned since the beginning of the 19th century.
The Porges brothers came from Oporto, Portugal together with a wave of Jewish refugees who fled Spain and Portugal in the 19th century.

[ note of the webmaster : this date is unlikely, provided ancestors of the Porges brothers are tracked back to 1600 in Prague. However, it makes sense to believe that their ancestors fled Portugal at the time of inquisition ca 1492/6 ]

The Jewish community was born in Smichov in the first half of the 18th century.
From 1794 on, it already had organized a social action group that helped the sick and needy, and founded a Jewish cemetery that was still being used until 1921.
In 1850, the Smichov Jewish community started to build its first synagogue but it was never finished for lack of funds.
Nevertheless, the Jewish community continued to grow and it was decided to build a new, very big synagogue in the neo-Roman style (exterior), with a Moorish interior.
At the end of the 19th century, the Jewish community of Smichov had 2000 members, with annual revenues of 5600 Florins.
It was comprised of eight foundations, including a “hevra kadisha” which assisted in burials and had 126 members, a bikur holim” of 80 members who visited the sick and the poor, and a sisterhood made up of 90 women.
In 1892, a Hebrew school was established and in 1903 the new Jewish cemetery “Na Malvazinkach” was founded.
The Porges von Portheim family, founders of one of the oldest textile factories in Smichov, are buried there.

In 1930-1931, the synagogue was renovated in the purist style based on Leopold Ehrmann ‘s architectural plans.
This renovation completely changed the appearance of the synagogue and transformed it into one of the rare, modern synagogues in Bohemia.

But, unfortunately, the following years proved disastrous for the Jews and their synagogue.
In autumn 1941, the synagogue was closed and its members were sent to concentration camps.
During the war, the synagogue became a warehouse for all the objects stolen from the Jews by the Nazis.
The Jewish community of Smichov was decimated during the war and ceased to exist after the war.
The synagogue, however, was once again used as a warehouse by the CKD company after the war, and, as a result, the interior of the synagogue was severely damaged.
So in 1986 it was decided to demolish the synagogue, but fortunately it never came about. Instead, the synagogue was restituted to the Jewish community in 1993 and its new owner, the Jewish Museum of Prague, decided to renovate it and rebuild.
Renovation of the synagogue started in 2002 and it is expected to be finished in two years in time to house the Jewish archives and various art objects mentioned earlier.

During the renovation process, some precious discoveries were made. In January 2003, for example, a time-capsule was found in the foundations of the synagogue, dated

August 30, 1863.
The parchment document was found in perfect condition, intact, and even wrapped in a piece of newspaper of the day.
This is unusual inasmuch as such documents were usually placed in a case.
The director of the Jewish Museum of Prague, M. Leo Pavlat, commented that this important document was divided into twelve sections, each one written in a different script and decorated in the same style, i.e. from classic empire writing with an accompanying fine linear design to neo-gothique writing and its naturalist embellishments.
The text of this document recounts the long history of the Jewish community of Smichov, going back to the 18th century, and relates their undying determination to build their own synagogue.
Interestingly, the document reveals that the actual construction of the synagogue was made possible thanks to the generosity of the mayor of Smichov, Frantisek Ringhofer, a non-Jew.

This year, the Synagogue of Smichov is celebrating its 140th anniversary.
The original parchment document described above is to be found in the Jewish Museum of Prague, whereas a facsimile has been placed in the spot where it was originally found, in the synagogue.

L'histoire de la synagogue de Smichov

[26-03-2003] Par Astrid Hofmanova

http://radio.cz/fr/article/39040

La magie et le fantastique de Prague trouvent un écho supplémentaire dans l'évocation légendaire de son ghetto juif.
Selon la tradition, les Juifs seraient arrivés dans la ville après la destruction du temple de Jérusalem et, quoi qu'il en soit, ce peuple reste une composante essentielle de l'amalgame culturel dont Prague est toujours pénétrée.
Une architecture labyrinthique aux ruelles étroites et sombres et aux baraques entassées, tel était le visage du Cinquième quartier, avant sa démolition...
Parmi les monuments historiques témoignant d'une riche histoire juive sur le territoire de Prague, il y a les synagogues situées notamment dans le quartier juif de Josefov : la plus vielle synagogue de Prague - la synagogue Vieille-Nouvelle, la synagogue Maisel, la synagogue Haute, la synagogue Klaus...
Celles-ci ont une consoeur moins connue, située hors des frontières de l'ancien ghetto, dans le quartier de Smichov. Cette synagogue est en reconstruction et depuis 2004, elle devrait abriter les archives des communautés juives de Bohême et de Moravie et un dépôt des collections d'art plastique du Musée juif de Prague.

Voici donc l'histoire mouvementée de la synagogue de Smichov.

La synagogue que je désire vous présenter a été construite dans la plus vieille banlieue de Prague, celle de Smichov, en 1850.
A l'époque, la communauté juive de Smichov devait son développement rapide à des usines textiles fondées depuis le début du XIXe siècle notamment par les riches familles juives, dont les Porges, les Pribram et les Dormitzer.
A titre d'exemple, les frères Porges sont venus de la ville d'Oporto au Portugal avec une vague de réfugiés juifs chassés d'Espagne et du Portugal au XIXe siècle.

La communauté juive est née à Smichov dans la première moitié du XVIIIe sècle et depuis 1794 elle a eu déjà une société de soutien aux malades et aux misérables et un cimetière où l'on enterrait jusqu'en 1921.
En 1850, la communauté juive de Smichov a construit sa première synagogue mais faute de moyens financiers, la construction de celle-ci n'a jamais été achevée.
Comme la communauté se développait très rapidement, on a décidé de construire une nouvelle synagogue, plus grande, dans le style néo-roman (extérieur) et mauresque (intérieur).
A la fin du XIXe siècle, la communauté juive de Smichov comptait déjà 2000 membres et ses revenus annuels étaient de 5600 florins.
Elle a créé huit fondations pour le temple, les veuves pauvres et les étudiants, sa confrérie funéraire comptait 126 membres, la société de soutien aux pauvres et aux malades 80 membres et une amicale féminine 90 membres.
En 1892, on a fondé à Smichov une école de Talmud-Tora.
Le nouveau cimetière juif Na Malvazinkach a été fondé en 1903.
Parmi les personnalités importantes, il y a le prosateur expressionniste Hermann Ungar ou le poête et traducteur Friedrich Adler qui y avaient trouvé le lieu du dernier repos.
Le cimetière abrite aussi des tombeaux de la famille Porges de Portheim, fondatrice de l'une des plus anciennes usines textiles de Smichov.

Dans les années 1930-1931, la synagogue de Smichov a subi une reconstruction d'envergure dans le style puriste, d'après les plans de l'architecte Léopold Ehrmann.
Cette reconstruction monumentale a complètement changé son visage extérieur et a transformé la synagogue en l'une des rares constructions synagogales modernes de Bohême.
Malheureusement, les années à venir ont réservé à cette synagogue un destin peu enviable.
En automne 1941, la synagogue est fermée et les membres de la communauté envoyés dans des camps de concentration nazis.
Pendant la guerre, elle abrite un dépôt des biens juifs confisqués.
Après la guerre, la communauté juive de Smichov ne reprends plus ses activités.
La synagogue sert de nouveau d'un dépôt, cette fois-ci celui de pièces de rechange de la firme CKD.
L'intérieur remanié à cette fin a considérablement dégradé cette construction.
En 1986, la synagogue est destinée àla démolition, mais celle-ci ne se réalise heureusement pas.
La synagogue n'est restituée à la communauté juive qu'en 1993, après quoi son propriétaire, le Musée juif de Prague, décide de la reconstruire.
Les travaux commencent en 2002 pour que, deux ans plus tard, elle puisse accueillir les archives et le dépôt des collections d'art plastique.

Lors de la reconstruction de la synagogue de Smichov, les bâtisseurs ont réalisé une découverte précieuse.
Le 23 janvier dernier, ils ont trouvé dans les fondations de la synagogue un document en parchemin rappelant l'achèvement de la construction de la synagogue, le 30 août 1863.

Le directeur du Musée juif de Prague, M. Leo Pavlat à propos de cette découverte.

Une curiosité accompagne cette découverte.
Le document a été découvert dans un état parfait, intact, bien qu'emballé seulement dans un papier journal de l'époque.
Normalement, les documents d'une telle importance sont mis dans un étui.
Ayant une forme et un contenu très intéressant, le document est divisé en douze champs dont chacun a une écriture et une décoration différente, depuis le style classique empire avec un fin dessin linéaire jusqu'à l'écriture néo-gothique et un ornement naturaliste.
Le texte du document rappelle la longue histoire de la communauté juive de Smichov remontant à la moitié du XVIIIème siècle ainsi que sa détermination, de longues années durant, de construire sa propre synagogue.
Le document a été réalisé par Joseph Bindeles, portraitiste et lithographe pragois réputé.
On peut lire aussi dans le texte que la construction a été achevée grâce à l'aide financière du maire de Smichov d'alors, industriel et député, Frantisek Ringhofer, qui n'était pas d'origine juive.

La synagogue de Smichov fête cette année le 140ème anniversaire de sa fondation.
Le document de fondation sera déposé au Musée juif de Prague et son fac-similé placé là où l'on a trouvé le document original.

----------------

Smichov Synagogue: symbol of forgotten era amid new commercial excess

[19-04-2003] By Rob Cameron

http://www.radio.cz/en/article/39803

On the left bank of the River Vltava, about a kilometre away from Prague Castle, is an area called Smichov.
It used to be a grimy, rather sordid neighbourhood, home to smoke-belching factories, the Staropramen brewery and the city's seediest bars.
Smichov has never had much to recommend it (or at least not in my opinion), except for one, rather curious landmark.
Just as the tram pulls out from the Andel station, you pass a grey, functionalist-looking building, its doors padlocked shut.
At first it looks wholly unremarkable, a storeroom or an electricity substation perhaps.
But if you peer closely at the walls, you spot an inscription written in Hebrew.

This is Smichov Synagogue.
It was built in 1863, originally in the neo-Romanesque and Moorish style, to serve Smichov's Jewish community.
Jews had lived in Smichov since the mid-18th century, and fought for many years to have a synagogue of their own.
It was later rebuilt by a functionalist architect, which explains its rather drab exterior.

Then, of course, came the war, and the synagogue was closed, although it was spared demolition by the Nazis.
After the war the Communists gave the building to the CKD heavy engineering works, which used it as a storeroom.
Not until 1989 was it returned to Prague's tiny Jewish community.

Since then the synagogue has remained padlocked and closed, but the area around it has received a thorough face lift.
Gone are the factories and the dilapidated buildings.
In their place have sprung up two enormous shopping centres, complete with multiplex cinema.
The Smichov Synagogue now finds itself sandwiched between these two commercial monoliths - a reminder of a different era.

The Jewish community has recently started renovating the synagogue, which will eventually serve as a depository for the Jewish Museum.
The Smichov Synagogue will probably not be open to the public, although private tours might be allowed.
The interior is said to be quite impressive, although for me, it's the location which is the most interesting thing about it.
What finer juxtaposition of Prague old and new : a forgotten place of worship and a reminder of the city's tragic past, amidst all this commercial excess.

June 2003

The Porges von Portheim Palace in Prague